What a Bottle Leaves Out
Before sunrise beside the Tiber, ten friends helped Claudia Rizza harvest the grapes for Terramante's first proper white wine. What followed revealed the labour, uncertainty, friendship and imagination that a finished bottle rarely shows.
The Water Between Lunch and Thunder
On Ferragosto, a return to Trattoria Teresa, a first walk beside Lago di Piediluco and the full force of Cascata delle Marmore revealed a side of Umbria shaped by water-as ingredient, summer gathering place, engineered spectacle and source of power.
The Plural of One
At UNE in Capodacqua, Giulio Gigli’s restaurant becomes a study of land, preservation and the many people behind a singular vision.
Before Umbria Becomes a Brand
New hotels, easier access and international attention are changing Umbria. What will growth bring—and what should remain recognisable?
When Sicily Takes the Lead
Over seven days in eastern Sicily, the island repeatedly rewrote our plans. From abandoned tuna factories and fishing villages to orange orchards, Baroque towns and the slopes of Mount Etna, the most memorable experiences weren’t the ones we expected - they were the ones Sicily quietly placed in our path.
Understanding Umbria
Umbria isn’t another city to tick off a list. It’s a region where countryside, quietness and everyday life shape the journey as much as any landmark. Here’s what I’d love you to know before you visit.
When the Duomo Became a Concert Hall
Every summer, Piazza del Duomo in Spoleto quietly transforms into one of Italy’s most remarkable open-air concert venues. During the closing evening of Festival dei Due Mondi, I discovered that the most memorable performance wasn’t only the orchestra - it was also the changing light, the ancient cathedral and the art of noticing.
Looking Again
Returning home to Umbria after a few days in London, I found myself slowing down among the sunflowers. Looking closely at what first appeared familiar became a quiet reminder that paying attention can be one of the simplest ways to feel grounded again.
The Space Between
Some cities are remembered through their landmarks. Others reveal themselves in quieter ways. During a few days in London, I found myself lingering in neighbourhoods, watching markets wake up, and discovering that the moments between destinations often become the ones we remember most.
A Summer Lasagna
Living in Italy has taught me that familiar recipes often change with the seasons. This fresh summer lasagna swaps ragù and béchamel for white bean cream, basil pesto and ripe tomatoes - a light, no-bake dish that celebrates the rhythm of summer.
My Third Summer in Umbria
Three years after moving to Italy, June feels less like a season and more like a way of life. Long days, ripening fruits, lingering lunches and familiar routines reveal an Umbria that guidebooks rarely describe.
Waiting for Tomatoes
Every summer, I find myself photographing tomatoes again - in gardens, markets, restaurants and kitchens across different places and seasons. Somewhere along the way, I realised I was not really documenting tomatoes, but the quiet role they play in daily life, memory and the way we eat.
Where Rome Softens
Beyond the monuments and familiar postcards, Rome softens through hidden courtyards, jasmine-covered facades, evening rituals and quiet moments best discovered slowly.
Why Umbria Feels Like Italy’s Best-kept Secret
Beyond Italy’s better-known cities, Umbria unfolds through hill towns, long lunches, stone streets and a quieter rhythm of life shaped by landscape, memory and slowness.